Crossing the border to Zimbabwe over Kariba Dam wall and admiring the water through the flood-gates, little did we know that the same high water downstream in the gorge would provide a huge challenge the next day. Within a few minutes of launching our loaded canoes, we encountered rough water and whirlpools. Three out of five canoes were completely swamped, one turning over completely. It took a while for the group to get together again and that with the help of a speed boat filled with a plain-clothed heavily-armed Zimbabwean anti-poaching team. Fortunately everyone made it through the ordeal safely. It was a scary experience, I won't elaborate on all the details. Word spread quickly, and we were the talk of the town during a visit into Chirundu on Day 3. We did lose some gear and two of us damaged camera equipment. The next five days were a vast improvement on that first day. The gorge ended, and the paddling was much easier. We camped most nights on islands, when they could be found. With the flood waters, many of the islands usually used as camp sites were under water. We witnessed the lunar eclipse one night. We continously encountered pods of hippos the whole trip, and many crocodiles moved out of the way as we passed. This all without incident. At night, the crocodiles gleaming eyes could be seen in the water by torchlight just beyond our camp-site. Our two Zimbabwean river guides were excellent !
